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The ideal frank should be juicy, not mushy. It needs to be firm and have some snap when bitten into. It should have a robust flavor with a good balance of smoke and spice. Most importantly, it should be able to stand on its own, with or without condiments and buns.
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To pin down this perfect dog, we tasted 13 varieties available nationwide, including the following, listed from highest to lowest score: Nathan's Skinless Beef Franks, Thumann's, Oscar Mayer, Boar's Head, Ball Park, Hatfield Quality Meats, 365, Hebrew National, Applegate Farms, Dietz & Watson, Bilinski's, Nature's Rancher, and D'Artagnan.
All brands were all-beef (no pork blends) and fully cooked. Several were marketed as all-natural and/or organic.
Methodology: In a blind taste test, seven judges compared the flavor, consistency, and appearance of the hot dogs one at a time. All dogs were grilled at the same temperature until browned. (Some required more cooking time, since the thickness of the dogs varied.) We ranked them according to the Epicurious four-fork rating system (four being highest). One wiener was anointed our top pick, receiving 3 1/2 forks. Two runners-up would certainly find a spot on our grill.
But to make the final cut, a frankfurter needed to be universally loved: more on those top dogs, below.
Epi Top Pick: Nathan's Beef Franks ($4.49 for 8-count pack)
Pros: "This dog has a smoky-sweet spiciness and is perfectly juicy," commented one taster. "I love how it's not mushy like Play-Doh; it has an unyielding consistency and a good wide girth," stated another. One taster said it best: "I knew it was the winner when I tasted it cold and it was still appetizing."
Cons: A bit greasy.
Pros: "There's a pickled sweet aroma, which I could taste in each bite," said one editor. "The neutral color and good, snappy skin made me feel like I was eating a classic New York City street 'furter."
Cons: A little on the skinny side.
Pros: "This pick has a very distinct taste," said one taster. "It's nicely seasoned with garlic and an intense smokiness that reminds me of beef jerky." Other judges found it not overly greasy and with just the right firm bite.
Cons: This dog was oddly red and the texture spongy.
THE LOSERS
While the marks from the judges for the top dogs were
consistently high, there was less agreement about the ones that
received overall lower rankings. In fact, at least one judge liked
every hot dog we tasted.
The worst marks went to a hot dog from D'Artagnan, a
gourmet purveyor whose products we generally love. The biggest
complaint was that the frank didn't taste like a traditional
American hot dog. "Not a dog for hot dog lovers," said
one judge. But if you're looking for a gourmet uncured
sausage with abundant herbs, D'Artagnan's could be
the one for you.
Nature's Rancher and Bilinksi's also received low scores overall. The former was criticized for being "mushy" and having an overpowering herbal aftertaste. The latter was described as "bland" and "blah," with an overly soft consistency. Despite the criticisms, Nature's Ranch was praised by a few judges for a sweet sausage-like flavor. "A nice option for something a bit different," said one judge. Another judge called Bilinski's "not too salty, not too spicy—a good all-around hot dog."
Prices and availability subject to change.
Not a hot dog person? Check out 21 top-rated burger recipes including beef, turkey and veggie
by Carolina Santos-Neves
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