Avenue Pleat Back Cropped Denim Jacket
Always opt for professional. Of course.
To build a functional work wardrobe, no matter what your size, start with classic basics. Everyone needs a terrific pair of neutral pants (black, brown, charcoal gray, navy), with a flat front and a wide leg that falls straight from the widest part of the hip to the top of the shoe. Look also for a straight skirt -- again, one that falls straight from the widest part of the hip, and hits just above or just below the knee, depending on your height. Steer clear of tapered pencil skirts, which will make you look like an ice cream cone, and be cautious of very wide A line skirts, which can create volume across your backside.
Pair skirts and trousers with a wrap sweater or blouse, which will emphasize your curves, or a sweater with an asymmetrical or V neckline, which will draw attention to your face. Button front shirts are also fantastic, as long as they fit properly through both the shoulders AND the bust; the placket should lay flat and not gape, and the body should taper in to emphasize your waist.
To dress up your basic trousers and shirt, add a great jacket; leaving the collar out over the jacket collar adds visual interest near your face and create a nice V neckline. But be SURE the jacket fits properly -- your should be able to button it across the chest, even if you will NEVER wear it that way. A jacket that fits in the shoulders but is too slim to button does NOT fit properly, and it will make you look bigger through the chest. By the same token, a jacket that buttons properly but is too big in the shoulders or through the body will make you look bigger through the midsection. Buy the jacket that fits through the chest and have the rest altered.
For a more casual office, opt for a denim or leather blazer, rather than a suit jacket. Denim and leather are heavier fabrics, which will provide some structure; they are also traditionally more casual fabrics, so you won't be overdressed in a Casual Friday environment. Steer clear of chest pockets, or flap pockets of any sort. The jacket's shape can be either a one-button (which will help define your waistline) or a boxier shape that hits at the high hip.
When you wear a plus size, look for lighter-weight fabrics in cuts that fall close to the body, or heavier fabrics in structured cuts; this will play up curves and highlight your shape. Above all, resist the urge to buy big just because you ARE big; no matter what your size, buy ONLY pieces that fit correctly, or have thing tailored.
To personalize a basics wardrobe, think carefully about details: rather than a button front shirt, go with a wrap shirt; instead of a crew neck sweater, look for a sweater with some detailing at the neckline. Think also about incorporating one or two more trendy pieces into your basic wardrobe, either as accessories (a great metallic bag or animal print shoe) or in a carefully selected wardrobing piece (a 50s inspired suit jacket for fall). Use jewelry (chunky necklaces or a wide cuff bracelet) to give basics character. Be sure that your accessories are properly sized; go for a substantial bag and bigger jewelry, not a wee clutch or tiny pearl stud earrings.
Susan Wagner blogs about putting together a great work wardrobe that fits your life at The Working Closet and dishes out fashion advice for the yoga pants generation at Friday Style.
Check out Susan's recent posts at The Working Closet:
Five must-haves for your back-to-work wardrobe
How to make a personal shopper work for you
