Food

Monday, October 13, 2008

Have food celebs sold out?



Cooking shows are to me what soap operas were for my grandmother. I watch a variety of programs, from the Food Network to PBS and the BBC. The popularity of entertaining cooking shows seems to be in full swing with new shows emerging all the time. So, it's not terribly surprising that when a food personality gains popularity, the marketing machine behind them seeks to profit as much as possible.

But, is there a point where it becomes too much?

My earliest memories are of Julia Child giving simple advice on french cookery. It was a magical world back then, there wasn't an internet and VCRs had not yet been released. Julia worked within the conventional media of the time, publishing books and producing informative television shows.

Today, there are a plethora of cookbooks and magazines spawned from each of our beloved food celebs, but I am stunned by what else they now sell in their arsenal of goods. Admittedly, I am guilty of buying a set of Nigella serving platters many years ago when it all seemed unique and exciting. Fortunately, I found them at a clearance store and didn't pay full price.

I am uncertain who to point my finger at for this trend but it's likely the successful rise of the Martha Stewart empire. And like Martha, the world of food celeb merchandise seems to be growing exponentially as well ...


  • Alton Brown has a line of knives
  • Bobby Flay has Mesa marinades and seasonings
  • Emeril Laggase sells a line of seasonings and cookware
  • Giada De Laurentiis recently launched a line of seasonings
  • Ina Garten sells bake mixes and gourmet foods
  • Mario Batali created a line of cookware and utensils
  • Michael Chiarello created a chain of stores called NapaStyle
  • Nigella Lawson sells dishes and bakeware
  • Pat & Gina Neelys are newcomers but have a line of sauces and seasonings
  • Paula Deen has bake mixes and seasonings
  • Tyler Florence has a large line of dishes for Mikasa

... and Rachael Ray may just have the most diverse line of goods, from utensils and bakeware to EVOO and dog food. Yes, dog food.

While shopping at Wal-Mart recently, I was shocked to find a line of dog food now available from Rachael Ray. I had to snap this photograph to document that I wasn't seeing things -- you can click on the photo to view it in a larger size. Granted, she is a huge dog lover and makes this widely known. Still, it somehow seems completely absurd to me and proves that celebs can sell absolutely anything. But, should they?

Sometimes it feels like they are playing a trick on us, like selling a simple mix of seasonings for which the recipe is widely known and published. As 'essence' is to Emeril, 'house seasoning' is to Paula Deen. She uses it in nearly every episode and has given the recipe before -- it's a simple mix of salt, pepper, and garlic powder. Why then would house seasoning be sold for $7.49 for 4oz? Well, because it sells.

As food celebs gain notoriety and new celebs emerge, the trend in branded merchandise will surely continue. My prediction is that we'll next see a liquor line from Sandra Lee or Paula Deen putting her name on tubs of butter. If marketing research shows they can make a dime off from it, you can bet it's in development.

Maybe I am too harsh and bitter, but for me the merchandising distracts from the cooking and makes me question the authenticity of the food and character of the celebrity.

What do you think -- are you buying their wares?


Photo Source: personal photo taken at Wal-Mart of Rachael Ray's new 'Nutrish' dog food line
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Allen Williams is the author of Eating Out Loud, an online food blog.


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From the Community…

Comments 1-10 of 23
  • Fae's Avatar
    Posted by Fae Fri Jul 25, 2008 11:49am PDT

    heck no! While I absolutely love Tyler Florence, I would not buy any of that merchandise. It's just a lesser quality item with someone's name splashed all over it. Ina Garten was selling that stuff before she hit the t.v. so she's cool with me. Food celebs should chill out with the sell out. Remember Emeril's sitcom? I didn't think so.

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  • nicole's Avatar
    Posted by nicole Fri Jul 25, 2008 11:59am PDT

    I would never by any of this stuff. I don't need Emeril's pots or Alton's knives!! Give me my Calphalon and my Wusthoff. This is happening because in general most people can't cook anymore. Maybe it's a feminist thing and women think learning to cook will make them slaves, I don't know, but I'm the only one of my female peers who can cook. I do it cause I LOVE it (and my husband loves it too). How sad that they're spending that much on simple spices like that bs "house seasoning" when they could easily make it themselves! I wonder if people buy this stuff because they think somehow the chef's name will magically improve their cooking? I kind of agree that these food celebs are selling out. They're ripping off the audience they're supposed to be "helping."

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  • Disgruntled's Avatar
    Posted by Disgruntled Fri Jul 25, 2008 12:51pm PDT

    I will admit that I own cookbooks written by Alton Brown and Rachael Ray. I also own two of Giada Di Laurentiis's cookbooks and I use them so often that the pages are covered in bits of sauce and olive oil. I don't have a huge issue with celebrity chefs selling cookware or dishes. I usually don't buy them because they're too expensive but I probably would if I could find them on sale and if it was something I needed. However, I'm not that big on them doing food products. The point of knowing how to cook is having the ability to make it yourself. I'd rather have the recipe for a Paula Deen cake than just buying the cake mix. I don't need to buy "Essence of Emeril" when I can make it myself. As for Rachael Ray, I like 30 Minute Meals and her cookbook but I don't need to watch her talk show, see her Dunkin Donuts ads, buy Nabisco crackers because her face is on the box or buy her own brand of EVOO, chicken stock, or dog food. I don't want to buy her line of knives and I certainly don't need a Rachael Ray "garbage bowl." She is getting ridiculously over-exposed and I am seriously tired of seeing her everywhere.

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  • Allen of EOL's Avatar
    Posted by Allen of EOL Fri Jul 25, 2008 12:56pm PDT

    I had forgotten about the Emeril sitcom! Haha -- it didn't last very long :-)

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  • tessabr's Avatar
    Posted by tessabr Fri Jul 25, 2008 4:49pm PDT

    When did Emeril have a sitcom?

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  • Allen of EOL's Avatar
    Posted by Allen of EOL Fri Jul 25, 2008 5:02pm PDT

    I think it was called 'Emeril' and debuted in 2001 (very short-lived though). Here is a link to it on IMDB: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0285359/

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  • Judywrite1's Avatar
    Posted by Judywrite1 Sat Jul 26, 2008 7:18am PDT

    The only thing I own with any of the chef's names are a few of their cookbooks.

    Sometimes, it is hard for me to believe they are there for their craft and to promote good food and cooking - it all seems so self-promotional and it getting worse. An entire section of the kitchen department in Kohl's is all Food Network. Ina Garten's cake mix is $8.99 a box - that is way over the top for a cake mix. I will buy my own high end ingredients thank you.

    As for Rachel Ray's garbage bowl - give me a break. I have long used a large mixing bowl and don't need a designer one.

    Great commentary - thanks.

    Judy

    http://buzz.prevention.com/community/category/judy-writes

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  • navarros34's Avatar
    Posted by navarros34 Sat Jul 26, 2008 7:42am PDT

    NO! BUT I LOVE ALL COOKING SUPPLIES ......EVERYTHING..

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  • Vickie G.'s Avatar
    Posted by Vickie G. Sat Jul 26, 2008 8:20am PDT

    I do agree that with a stars' name attached to something whether it is dishes, skillets, or food. It will sell because we want to know if it tastes better then what we buy. Just because it has their name on it. We can say that was made with whichever celebritys' name is on the product. Yes, I do think things sale alot faster and all.

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  • Patty's Avatar
    Posted by Patty Sat Jul 26, 2008 8:20am PDT

    I really like the Food Network people. Paula Deen kind of makes me ill but I still like her. These folks are just trying to make as much money doing what they do just like the rest of us. If someone would buy a mixing bowl with my name on it, I would have one also! This would not even be an issue if there weren't folks out there who actually buy this stuff. Anyone who pays $8.99 for a cakemix needs their head examined. I have found that the best mixes are the store brand ones at the deep discount grocery stores! Nobody has their name on them! Bottom line is that these folks are trying to make as much money as they can doing what they are best at. The American Way. Can't really blame them for that.

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Comments 1-10 of 23

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