I've been seeing a lot of weird salts at the market: pink, Maldon, black, red, flavored, smoked. And every single one of them costs more than what I'm used to paying. Are they worth it?--SALLY NADER, West Jordan, UT
Dear Sally,
The fancy varieties you describe are what I think of as finishing salts: A little bit added to a dish at the table can bring an extra hit of flavor and texture. But for my money, and for a lot of restaurant chefs, you can't beat coarse kosher salt.
The Foodist used to think all salt was created equal until a peek into some of America's most famous restaurant kitchens revealed the universal presence of kosher salt. While iodized salt is the standard for baking, chefs love kosher salt for its coarse texture (easy to pinch and sprinkle evenly over food) and clean, bright flavor, and because it's dirt cheap (kosher salt costs 4 cents per ounce; sea salt is about 75 cents and up per ounce). I go through a 3-pound box--preferably Diamond Crystal (diamondcrystalsalt.com), in the recognizable red-and-black packaging--every couple of months.
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