Just me or do you layer on skin care
products just kinda praying that
you're
putting them on in the most effective order? Like should the
antioxidant
serum go before an
acne treatment? Does eye cream (like
these reader-approved ones) go on before
moisturizer? Does it even freaken matter? We all have more
important things to stress out about, so I'm sharing this
step-by-step guide from a few trusted skin gurus. We can all sleep
better tonight knowing that our wrinkles are being successfully
attacked by our retinol
cream.
A.M. Routine:
Step one:
cleanser
Obvious, yeah, but you must always start by washing your face to
dissolve dirt, oil and grime, which can block pores and keep other
products from doing their work.
Step two:
exfoliant
Feel free to skip cleansing on days you exfoliate, since sloughing
also removes dirt and oil, says Dr. Jeannette Graf, assistant
clinical professor of dermatology at New York University School of
Medicine.
Step three:
toner
Many experts don't promote toning, but there are exceptions.
"It's good as a post-rinse following
at-home microdermabrasion to remove tiny crystals, or as a
soothing step following makeup removal," Graf says.
Step four: prescription products
"Always apply prescription topicals first, on clean, dry skin,
to enhance their penetration," says Graf. Many are designed to
be used twice daily, so make sure they're at the top of the
order at night, too.
Step five: antioxidant
serum
Think of layering skincare products as you would layering clothes
in winter. "Start with the thinnest item and end with the
thickest," says Graf. Free radical-fighting serums are crucial
for daytime wear when skin needs protection.
Step six: eye
cream
Pat it on prior to moisturizing. "Topping an eye
cream or serum
with
lotion will actually seal in its active ingredients,"
explains Ranella Hirsch, a dermatologist in Cambridge, Mass., and
president-elect of the American Society of Cosmetic Dermatology and
Aesthetic Surgery.
Step seven: redness relievers
"These products include ingredients like green tea (which
contains caffeine) and niacinamide to constrict capillaries and
abate redness," says Howard Fein, director of dermatologic
surgery at Harbor-UCLA Medical Center. Take advantage of these
visible benefits by using them during the day, in place of your
regular moisturizer.
Step eight: moisturizer
Consider the chemistry of creams: "They usually contain more
oil than water," Fein says. "So if you were to put them
on first, your lighter, water-based gels and serums would slide off
your face instead of sinking in." But by applying them almost
last, they actually lock in your other products, boosting their
efficacy.
Step nine:
sunscreen
If your moisturizer
doubles as an SPF 30 or higher sunscreen
-- and you're spending the day indoors -- you can omit the
additional sunscreen, says Hirsch.
Step 10:
makeup primer
Whether using it to fill in lines, hide pores or just create an
even canvas for color, silicone-based
primer is your last step. It's like waterproofing your
skin, says Jim Hammer, a cosmetics chemist at Pharmasol Labs in
Easton, Mass.
P.M. Routine:
Step one: cleanser
Again, dissolve makeup, dirt, oil and daily grime so all those
nighttime goodies can work on clean, bare skin.
Step two: Retinoids/prescription skincare
Skin-smoothing retinoids take top precedence at night -- and not
just because they're prescription products. "If your skin
is moist from water or cream, a retinoid can become more irritating
to skin," says Audrey Kunin, a dermatologist in Kansas City
and founder of dermadoctor.com. Never apply retinoid products over
any sort of serum or lotion, and only apply it after dark.
"Sunlight can degrade retinoids, rendering them
powerless," says Fein. If your complexion calls for a
different kind of prescription drug, use that product here in place
of retinoids.
Step three:
hydroquinone spot treatments
According to Graf, hydroquinone and retinoids work synergistically,
intensifying each other's performance. So wearing one on top of
the other makes good sense. Why at night? "The sun, which
promotes melanin production, can counteract hydroquinone's
pigment-inhibiting effects," Hirsch says.
Step four: peptide
serum
Peptides are most useful at night when the skin is in renewal mode
because they heal and regenerate skin, and can even rebuild
collagen, explains Graf. If you're already using one or more of
the other products listed above, opt for a peptide-rich night cream
instead of a separate serum to streamline your routine.
Step five: eye
cream
Find a night version (no SPF) with reparative retinol or
peptides.
Step six: night
cream
At night, the skin's pH is lower, which means dead cells shed
more easily. Microcirculation is higher, allowing the skin to make
new cells and mend old, tired ones, says Graf. Smoothing on a
healing night cream bolsters this activity. Hirsch says rich
formulas are best because their thick, heavy base can help drive
active ingredients into the skin. But if you're using
retinoids, avoid creams with alpha hydroxy acids. "The two can
inactivate each other when used back-to-back," Hirsch
adds.
Even when applied in the right order,
these creams failed
Still looking for your ideal eye cream? Take
this quiz to find it
Wish you didn't have to use so many products? Try
these multi-use gems
