Fashion + Beauty

Thursday, November 26, 2009

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What Comes First, Eye Cream or Moisturizer?

Just me or do you layer on skin care
products just kinda praying that
you're
putting them on in the most effective order? Like should the antioxidant serum go before an acne treatment? Does eye cream (like these reader-approved ones) go on before moisturizer? Does it even freaken matter? We all have more important things to stress out about, so I'm sharing this step-by-step guide from a few trusted skin gurus. We can all sleep better tonight knowing that our wrinkles are being successfully attacked by our retinol cream.

A.M. Routine:

Step one: cleanser

Obvious, yeah, but you must always start by washing your face to dissolve dirt, oil and grime, which can block pores and keep other products from doing their work.

Step two: exfoliant
Feel free to skip cleansing on days you exfoliate, since sloughing also removes dirt and oil, says Dr. Jeannette Graf, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at New York University School of Medicine.

Step three: toner
Many experts don't promote toning, but there are exceptions. "It's good as a post-rinse following at-home microdermabrasion to remove tiny crystals, or as a soothing step following makeup removal," Graf says.

Step four: prescription products
"Always apply prescription topicals first, on clean, dry skin, to enhance their penetration," says Graf. Many are designed to be used twice daily, so make sure they're at the top of the order at night, too.

Step five: antioxidant serum
Think of layering skincare products as you would layering clothes in winter. "Start with the thinnest item and end with the thickest," says Graf. Free radical-fighting serums are crucial for daytime wear when skin needs protection.

Step six: eye cream
Pat it on prior to moisturizing. "Topping an eye cream or serum with lotion will actually seal in its active ingredients," explains Ranella Hirsch, a dermatologist in Cambridge, Mass., and president-elect of the American Society of Cosmetic Dermatology and Aesthetic Surgery.

Step seven: redness relievers
"These products include ingredients like green tea (which contains caffeine) and niacinamide to constrict capillaries and abate redness," says Howard Fein, director of dermatologic surgery at Harbor-UCLA Medical Center. Take advantage of these visible benefits by using them during the day, in place of your regular moisturizer.

Step eight: moisturizer
Consider the chemistry of creams: "They usually contain more oil than water," Fein says. "So if you were to put them on first, your lighter, water-based gels and serums would slide off your face instead of sinking in." But by applying them almost last, they actually lock in your other products, boosting their efficacy.

Step nine:
sunscreen
If your moisturizer doubles as an SPF 30 or higher sunscreen -- and you're spending the day indoors -- you can omit the additional sunscreen, says Hirsch.

Step 10: makeup primer
Whether using it to fill in lines, hide pores or just create an even canvas for color, silicone-based primer is your last step. It's like waterproofing your skin, says Jim Hammer, a cosmetics chemist at Pharmasol Labs in Easton, Mass.

P.M. Routine:

Step one:
cleanser
Again, dissolve makeup, dirt, oil and daily grime so all those nighttime goodies can work on clean, bare skin.

Step two: Retinoids/prescription skincare
Skin-smoothing retinoids take top precedence at night -- and not just because they're prescription products. "If your skin is moist from water or cream, a retinoid can become more irritating to skin," says Audrey Kunin, a dermatologist in Kansas City and founder of dermadoctor.com. Never apply retinoid products over any sort of serum or lotion, and only apply it after dark. "Sunlight can degrade retinoids, rendering them powerless," says Fein. If your complexion calls for a different kind of prescription drug, use that product here in place of retinoids.

Step three: hydroquinone spot treatments
According to Graf, hydroquinone and retinoids work synergistically, intensifying each other's performance. So wearing one on top of the other makes good sense. Why at night? "The sun, which promotes melanin production, can counteract hydroquinone's pigment-inhibiting effects," Hirsch says.

Step four: peptide serum
Peptides are most useful at night when the skin is in renewal mode because they heal and regenerate skin, and can even rebuild collagen, explains Graf. If you're already using one or more of the other products listed above, opt for a peptide-rich night cream instead of a separate serum to streamline your routine.

Step five: eye cream
Find a night version (no SPF) with reparative retinol or peptides.

Step six: night cream
At night, the skin's pH is lower, which means dead cells shed more easily. Microcirculation is higher, allowing the skin to make new cells and mend old, tired ones, says Graf. Smoothing on a healing night cream bolsters this activity. Hirsch says rich formulas are best because their thick, heavy base can help drive active ingredients into the skin. But if you're using retinoids, avoid creams with alpha hydroxy acids. "The two can inactivate each other when used back-to-back," Hirsch adds.


Even when applied in the right order, these creams failed
Still looking for your ideal eye cream? Take this quiz to find it
Wish you didn't have to use so many products? Try these multi-use gems
Syndication:

From the Community…

Comments 11-20 of 23
  • Fashion Blogger's Avatar
    Posted by Fashion Blogger Fri Apr 10, 2009 4:01pm PDT

    I think this is too long a list for anyone. Ladies please correct me if I am wrong. But this is waaaayyyyy tooo long. Any shorter lists anyone?

    Report Abuse
  • Mrs R0bins0n's Avatar
    Posted by Mrs R0bins0n Fri Apr 10, 2009 9:06pm PDT

    Nothing beats good old fashion Ponds cleanser and moisturizer. Im 50 but i look 40.

    Report Abuse
  • Zeplin522's Avatar
    Posted by Zeplin522 Sat Apr 11, 2009 5:56am PDT

    Wow, you'd just get finished doing all that and have to start

    all over again. Thats about 5 steps too many. And just how

    much of that stuff does your skin absorb? I wash, eye cream

    and then moisture.

    Report Abuse
  • Samina's Avatar
    Posted by Samina Sat Apr 11, 2009 6:43am PDT

    Who have a time for 10 steps,but good information thanks!

    Report Abuse
  • Zeplin522's Avatar
    Posted by Zeplin522 Sat Apr 11, 2009 12:32pm PDT

    The reason you are a loser is that this blog has nothing

    to do with dating and no one cares.

    Report Abuse
  • CarolB's Avatar
    Posted by CarolB Sat Apr 11, 2009 2:46pm PDT

    wow, I wrote almost the same article on my blog a couple of weeks ago. check out my version.

    Report Abuse
  • Maria M's Avatar
    Posted by Maria M Sat Apr 11, 2009 5:09pm PDT

    how about:

    1. Cetaphil (cleanser)

    2. Astringent

    3. Eye Cream

    4. Mosturizer w/ SPF

    Report Abuse
  • Alexandra's Avatar
    Posted by Alexandra Sat Apr 11, 2009 10:43pm PDT

    That is too many steps! If I did that, I'd be feeling pretty nasty.

    I think I'll stick to something a little simpler:

    Step one: cleanse

    Step two: moisturize

    Step three: ???

    Step four: PROFIT!

    Report Abuse
  • Julie's Avatar
    Posted by Julie Sat Apr 11, 2009 11:40pm PDT

    thank you

    Report Abuse
  • bboyschica's Avatar
    Posted by bboyschica Mon Apr 13, 2009 7:35am PDT

    So is it ok to put moisturizer over my eye cream? I always thought it was to heavy for that area.

    Report Abuse
Comments 11-20 of 23

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