products just kinda praying that you're
putting them on in the most effective order? Like should the antioxidant serum go before an acne treatment? Does eye cream (like these reader-approved ones) go on before moisturizer? Does it even freaken matter? We all have more important things to stress out about, so I'm sharing this step-by-step guide from a few trusted skin gurus. We can all sleep better tonight knowing that our wrinkles are being successfully attacked by our retinol cream.
A.M. Routine:
Step one: cleanser
Obvious, yeah, but you must always start by washing your face to dissolve dirt, oil and grime, which can block pores and keep other products from doing their work.
Step two: exfoliant
Feel free to skip cleansing on days you exfoliate, since sloughing also removes dirt and oil, says Dr. Jeannette Graf, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at New York University School of Medicine.
Step three: toner
Many experts don't promote toning, but there are exceptions. "It's good as a post-rinse following at-home microdermabrasion to remove tiny crystals, or as a soothing step following makeup removal," Graf says.
Step four: prescription products
"Always apply prescription topicals first, on clean, dry skin, to enhance their penetration," says Graf. Many are designed to be used twice daily, so make sure they're at the top of the order at night, too.
Step five: antioxidant serum
Think of layering skincare products as you would layering clothes in winter. "Start with the thinnest item and end with the thickest," says Graf. Free radical-fighting serums are crucial for daytime wear when skin needs protection.
Step six: eye cream
Pat it on prior to moisturizing. "Topping an eye cream or serum with lotion will actually seal in its active ingredients," explains Ranella Hirsch, a dermatologist in Cambridge, Mass., and president-elect of the American Society of Cosmetic Dermatology and Aesthetic Surgery.
Step seven: redness relievers
"These products include ingredients like green tea (which contains caffeine) and niacinamide to constrict capillaries and abate redness," says Howard Fein, director of dermatologic surgery at Harbor-UCLA Medical Center. Take advantage of these visible benefits by using them during the day, in place of your regular moisturizer.
Step eight: moisturizer
Consider the chemistry of creams: "They usually contain more oil than water," Fein says. "So if you were to put them on first, your lighter, water-based gels and serums would slide off your face instead of sinking in." But by applying them almost last, they actually lock in your other products, boosting their efficacy.
Step nine: sunscreen
If your moisturizer doubles as an SPF 30 or higher sunscreen -- and you're spending the day indoors -- you can omit the additional sunscreen, says Hirsch.
Step 10: makeup primer
Whether using it to fill in lines, hide pores or just create an even canvas for color, silicone-based primer is your last step. It's like waterproofing your skin, says Jim Hammer, a cosmetics chemist at Pharmasol Labs in Easton, Mass.
P.M. Routine:
Step one: cleanser
Again, dissolve makeup, dirt, oil and daily grime so all those nighttime goodies can work on clean, bare skin.
Step two: Retinoids/prescription skincare
Skin-smoothing retinoids take top precedence at night -- and not just because they're prescription products. "If your skin is moist from water or cream, a retinoid can become more irritating to skin," says Audrey Kunin, a dermatologist in Kansas City and founder of dermadoctor.com. Never apply retinoid products over any sort of serum or lotion, and only apply it after dark. "Sunlight can degrade retinoids, rendering them powerless," says Fein. If your complexion calls for a different kind of prescription drug, use that product here in place of retinoids.
Step three: hydroquinone spot treatments
According to Graf, hydroquinone and retinoids work synergistically, intensifying each other's performance. So wearing one on top of the other makes good sense. Why at night? "The sun, which promotes melanin production, can counteract hydroquinone's pigment-inhibiting effects," Hirsch says.
Step four: peptide serum
Peptides are most useful at night when the skin is in renewal mode because they heal and regenerate skin, and can even rebuild collagen, explains Graf. If you're already using one or more of the other products listed above, opt for a peptide-rich night cream instead of a separate serum to streamline your routine.
Step five: eye cream
Find a night version (no SPF) with reparative retinol or peptides.
Step six: night cream
At night, the skin's pH is lower, which means dead cells shed more easily. Microcirculation is higher, allowing the skin to make new cells and mend old, tired ones, says Graf. Smoothing on a healing night cream bolsters this activity. Hirsch says rich formulas are best because their thick, heavy base can help drive active ingredients into the skin. But if you're using retinoids, avoid creams with alpha hydroxy acids. "The two can inactivate each other when used back-to-back," Hirsch adds.
Even when applied in the right order, these creams failed
Still looking for your ideal eye cream? Take this quiz to find it
Wish you didn't have to use so many products? Try these multi-use gems
- Let’s talk: Comment (23) | Blog
- Email to a Friend
- Print this Page
From the Community…
-
Posted by Thu Apr 9, 2009 11:05am PDT
Report Abusevery helpful! I always slap on moisturizer right after toning....
but, I will never ever have such a complex routine
just nice to know there is some method to the madness
-
Posted by Thu Apr 9, 2009 11:32am PDT
Report AbuseOh my ... I thought I have a complex regime with 5 steps. But 10 steps in the morning? Wow ;)
As for the eye cream question: I sometimes apply the eye cream twice, prior to the moisturizer and also after. You know, sometimes you have those "dehydrated" days where you'd need the extra bit of moisture around the eyes ...
-
Posted by Thu Apr 9, 2009 1:16pm PDT
Report Abusethis is so helpful, i never know either and feel like I make it up each day, while my routine wont have this many steps, its good to know how to add in products if need be! thanks!
-
Posted by Fri Apr 10, 2009 9:29am PDT
Report AbuseUm. I think that's overkill. In the morning wash, tone, moisturize, and go.
-
Posted by Fri Apr 10, 2009 11:32am PDT
Report AbuseWhile there are a lot of steps to both the AM and PM routine, and granted I don't have that many, this article still helped to clear a few things up for me. But I am a bit confused about the Alpha Hydroxy thing... I read an article a while back where a derm said that using an AHA cream before using a retinoid product can make the retinoid product actually work better. Here it's saying that they can basically cancel each other out. I suppose it's a good thing that I don't use an AHA cream before my Retin A anymore.
-
Posted by Fri Apr 10, 2009 12:54pm PDT
Report Abusei dont need 10 steps. wash, tone, moisturize, done.
-
Posted by Fri Apr 10, 2009 1:18pm PDT
Report AbuseHydroquinone is a dangerous ingredient! It's been linked to cancer, neurotoxicity, developmental toxicity, and other dangerous things. Go to cosmeticsdatabase.com, and search hydroquinone to see the evidence.
-
Posted by Fri Apr 10, 2009 1:30pm PDT
Report AbuseLeah: It is nice to see that someone else is using Envornmental Working Group and the cosmetic data base to check on some of these ingredients.
-
Posted by Fri Apr 10, 2009 1:32pm PDT
Report AbuseHoly crap! Who actually puts that much crap on their face, and furthermore, can their skin breathe ever?? Cleanse, tone, eye cream, moisturize and viola! And I thought I spent a ridiculous amount on skin care...
Also, alpha hydroxy's, Retin A, and the like, actually weaken the skin over time. Which means you will have to buy more products to balance that issue out as time goes on. K.I.S.S. I have also heard it recommended that one should keep as little product as possible on the skin at night. It is the only chance your skin has to breathe, so heavy night cream is keeping your skin from balancing and regulating itself. I may not have perfect skin (actually, I am pretty oily), but I drink, I used to smoke, and I do like the sun, and at almost 30, I still manage to look younger than some 21 year olds I know. Sometimes less is more. Oh, and I only use products that are literally 100% natural. The skin is porous, which means all those chemicals actually get into your body as well...
-
Posted by Fri Apr 10, 2009 2:12pm PDT
Report AbuseThis is exactly why I put lotion with sunscreen on my face and walk out the door. What a waste of time, money, and energy!
leave your comment
You must sign in to post a comment
