My feet are dangling above an outdoor kiddie pool/koi pond hybrid. Hundreds of tiny, black eellike "doctor fish" are swarming below, waiting for me to dip my toes in so they can suck away my dry skin with their toothless jaws. When I volunteered to test-drive Tokyo's fabled beauty treatments, I imagined authentic shiatsu massage with a Zen garden view, not guppies-gone-wild pedicures. But here I am at Oedo-Onsen Monogatari, a spa-themed amusement park next to Tokyo Disneyland that doubles as a date destination (it's open all night). My desire? A complete Japanese beauty overhaul.
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